The Shape of Things

Bold brows may be back but there’s one thing that’s even more important than thickness and that’s shape. Having suffered from evil brow syndrome my entire life – seriously when I was five my best friends big sisters used to laugh and ask why I plucked them like that. Ugh, I’m f**king 5 years old, I don’t know what a tweezers is! You’re probably pretty curious by now so I guess I should explain what evil brow syndrome entails: Just picture incredibly thick yet incredibly gappy brows, brows where the arch begins way too soon, brows that for years, the best estheticians told me couldn’t be helped. At one point (a very low point) I was even likened to a stroke victim by one sharp tongued frenemie because my brows had a tendency to droop and drag my entire face down. Long story short I’m a woman who has been on a twenty-five year quest to get those bad-boy-brows under control and now that I finally have I’ve decided it’s time to pay it forward…

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Haven’t got hundreds of euro to throw away on getting those pesky follicles ripped out of your face every month? Here’s how you can get a professional look at home:

Tweeze don’t thread: I realize threading is enjoying a serious moment right now (I was actually a threading devotee for about a year) but nothing can beat a good old fashion tweezers. Threading tugs (aggressively!) on the delicate eye area and can cause a lot of irritation. In my case it actually caused me to break out – not good. Worse still, after all that pain and irritation you’re still not going to get as good a result as you would with a tweezers. Threading just doesn’t offer the same level of precision. Obviously (at least I hope this is obvious to you guys) the same can be said for waxing.

Visualize your brow shape before you start: Clearly this is important for many reasons but the most crucial thing to keep in mind is this; the front of the brow should align with the upper bridge of your nose. No one wants those halfy-halfy brows 90’s era white trash used to sport – shudder!

Fill in your brows before you pluck: So this seemed super weird to me at first, I used to be really paranoid that because of this I would go completely overboard with the tweezing but believe it or not this ensures that you don’t get too pluck-happy. You’ll want to use a pencil or something similar to help guide you at this point. Place it at a perpendicular angle for the front of the brow—the widest part— and then turn it sideways at the arch for a thinner line at the end. The arch should be three-quarters of the way back from the nose bridge. From there, the tail should taper off and follow the angle of the eye.

Brush ‘em out: After drawing your desired eyebrow shape, use a spoolie brush to coax hairs up for lift and volume. This is a great way to hide pencil marks and fool people into thinking that’s actually your hair and not a penciled in gap. Think of it like a comb-over for the brow.

Pluck ‘er up: Once you’ve finished filling in and brushing, remove unwanted follicles with a good slant-tipped tweezers (I love Tweezerman) Important: Unless you’re actually a professional only ever pluck underneath – not above – the brow. And no, not because your brows will grow upward to meet your hairline (that’s an old wives tail people) but because you will more than likely tweeze into the arch which brings it down rather than up. I hate to admit it but this is where I’ve gone horrible wrong in the past.

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Check it: If you’re crafting the perfect brow using one of those super-scary magnifying mirrors (oh the pores!) I advise you to take a step back as often as possible. You need to look in a normal (friendlier) mirror to make sure you’re not losing all perspective and going completely overboard. It makes sense when you think about it – this is how the world is actually going to see you after all.

Trimming: Honestly guys you really don’t want to trim your brows unless you absolutely have to. Why? The more you trim, the harsher your hairs will grow in. Sad but true. That said, sometimes a little trimming is okay. How can you tell if you need it? Use a spoolie brush to comb hairs upward in the direction of the brow. If any hairs are noticeably longer than others or hang over the edge, snip sparingly.

Rinse and Repeat: You may need to re-fill slightly after all this work so get that pencil back out. After this you can continue to use the same techniques on brow 2. While it’s true that eyebrows are sisters, not twins try your best to keep the tops of your arches at the same point for the most symmetrical look possible.

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Two Things To Remember:

For a natural look blondes will want to choose a pencil or powder one shade darker than their hair while brunettes should choose one shade lighter.

If you decide to opt for a pencil over a powder make sure that it’s not overly waxy. Waxy pencils are hard to use, get “stuck” and result in dark, heavy, clumpy brows that look far from real.

Words: Kerrie Mitchell Burke @ http://www.rarelytakenseriously.com
Photos: We heart it.

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