Can you believe it’s that time of year again? London Collections: Men is over for another season and the men of England and beyond can be inspired by these runway shows until next time around. London Collections: Men (LC:M) is different from London Fashion Week in both obvious and subtle reasons. Not only is it just for men (clearly), it habitually only hones in on two or three trends per season that will undoubtedly become the high street trends for the next year. So what will be in store for our fashionable men next season?
This was Aquascutum’s first show in London since its collapse and subsequent resale in 2012. When founded back in 1851, the brand was all about tailoring and the new head of menswear design, Thomas Harvey, who used to be head honcho at Reiss, is keeping that the backbone of the new collection. These new pieces were simple, elegant and made for any of the fashionable men in your life, regardless of age. The collection was not all work-centric though, there were bomber jackets, baseball jackets and even parkas to keep the season bang on trend. All in all, it was a great collection to re-introduce the brand.
Christopher Shannon added that little bit of pop art madness to an otherwise simple collection – like a modern day Andy Warhol. Shannon, the very worthy winner of last year’s BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, turned one man’s trash into the treasure of LC:M. The designer combined clothes that every man would want to wear with that eccentric British culture that makes London so unique. There were plastic bags everywhere – made into jewellery, sewn onto clothing, even on the model’s heads. This new designer has already impressed the bigwigs of the fashion industry and he only has more to offer.
Hackett London’s collection mixed modern tailoring with an old British twist. With a runway of looks that wouldn’t be out of place in either Savile Row or Downton Abbey, Hackett London created a collection for the modern British gentleman with tweed, shearling jackets, khaki and even bowler hats. This slick new collection screams class and gives that quintessentially British style a wholly modern twist. Although Hackett London has been around since 1979, their collections never fail to stay on trend and offer personal and classic tailoring to the modern stylish man.
With a more relaxed collection, Hardy Amies took on the suit in a less traditional sense. This runway collection centred around grey and navy with splashes of colours like maroon and mustard. This season focused on staple pieces like the suit, turtlenecks, waistcoats, blazers and trenchcoats. Unlike Hackett London, there was a more slouchy, everyday style to Hardy Amies’ pieces – much better for nights out and less formal events. From the parkas to the masculine man bags, we’re sure to see a lot of the Hardy Amies influence on the high street next season.
JW Anderson is Ireland’s national treasure at the moment and that’s not set to end anytime soon. His womenswear collections are to die for and now that Anderson is designing for men, the boys aren’t missing out any more. As with his LFW collections, this collection was very androgynous with a 70s twist. Although I can’t see a lot of the pieces translating to the high street, JW Anderson is known for pushing the boundaries of ‘safe’ fashion and that is commendable in itself. From velour tracksuits to knee-length fur coats to bright purple leather bomber jackets, no one could say the collection was boring.
Oliver Spencer’s show was a little splash of colour in an otherwise dark hued LC:M. Although most of the collection was based on grey, Spencer added pops of colours that created a beautiful and wearable collection for any man. The runway was flooded with quite relaxed pieces like sweaters, overcoats and padded jackets, making this one of the most ready-to-wear collections of the LC:M 2015 season. Those splashes of deep red, mustard, electric blue and purple made for a formidable collection and a real joy to watch.
Topman always offer a great collection, whether it’s for men or their sister brand, Topshop. This season, Topman Design was all over the fashion media for another impressive show and the pieces were all extremely eclectic. The collection had quite a Beatle-mania vibe and tartan, fur and bellbottoms were the order of the day. Like JW Anderson, some of the clothes were a little out there but there are some gorgeous pieces that will work all on their own. Whether you love dressing up or wearing simple clothing, there is something in this new collection for you.
One of my favourite shows by far was YMC. Although the palette was basic – mostly greys and navy – there were some beautiful, unique pieces throughout the runway show. From simple monochrome combinations to simple blazers and sweaters, the brand created an immaculate aesthetic for the stylish gentleman. YMC had a beautiful combination of everyday and formal wear – all muted colours with pops of forest green and lemon yellow to brighten up the overall view of the show.
How could we forget about Burberry Prorsum – one of the most-anticipated shows at both LC:M and LFW? Christopher Bailey outdid himself again with pieces that were both classic and that little bit alternative. There were the traditional trenchcoats, shirts and tailored trousers but what really surprised were the patterns and colours. Bailey created a quite retro collection with odd, bright prints, shearling and scarves. It looked like dress-up time in a grandfather’s wardrobe – albeit a stylish grandfather – and we loved it. The design house continued with their new tradition of having live music playing instead of a CD track – this show had the pleasure of Clare Maguire’s voice and boy, did she impress.
As usual, there were only a couple of major trends out of London Collections: Men but they were beautiful ones. Even in 2015, these designers deem the tailored suit extremely important and this was the cornerstone of most runway collections this LC:M. The shows are over for another season but we can rest assured that our men will be well suited and booted after these designs make their way to the high street.
Photos via vogue.co.uk